Today I’ll be replacing a starter in a 2004 Honda Accord V6 (7th generation 2003–2007). Replacing a starter is largely the same in most cars but I’ll include specific information like bolt sizes and locations for this car. As always, I’ll include affiliate links to the tools I used.

The starter is always attached to the transmission so it usually pretty easy to find. In our case it is on the right side of the transmission below and to the left of the the battery. …


You did it! You made the decision to bring your 90’s Honda into the 21st century with a digital dash from Link or AiM but… how do you mount it?

This guide will show you step by step how to modify your factory gauge cluster to accept your shiny new digital dash. I am modifying the cluster from a 1990 CRX Si but the process will be largely the same for most 80’s or 90’s Hondas. I am installing a Link MXS Strada 5" (which shares the same foot print as an AiM MXS Strada). I got the Link dash…


Today is the day! The engine I’ve been building is going in the autocross CRX! I’ll go through the whole project step by step. To read about the engine build itself check out this post.

1990 Honda CRX Si

Step 1: Have a friend who has a lift.


This is going be a long one. You and I are going to start-to-finish build a 1.8 liter Honda B-series engine for 500hp.

The block we’ll be using is from a B18A1 which is a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder that came in 90–93 non-VTEC Acura Integras. It originally made 130hp.


Today’s project is installing this 42" LED light bar by Nilight (for off-road use) on my 2001 Honda CR-V. The mounting of the light will be specific to this light bar and this vehicle but the wiring I demonstrate (which will include a switch in the cabin) will apply to pretty much any kind of auxiliary lighting you want to add to any vehicle.

The light bar comes with these brackets that are intended to be installed directly to the roof of the vehicle. This requires drilling (and then sealing holes) in the roof. …


In this guide I’ll be upgrading a Honda B20B engine (from a JDM CRV) in a 1991 CRX Si to coil-on-plug. This method will be largely the same if you have a D, H or F series Honda engines.

In the 90s cars used a mechanical distributor to send high voltage current to the spark plugs in the engine. It was nice and it worked but it can be less precise and is harder to tune, which is important in a turbocharged setup.


So the check engine light came on in your car? Don’t ignore it!

This calls for an OBD scanner. You can read the codes yourself with this tool or you can stop by an auto parts store and use theirs (for free in most cases).


This is the third post about my turbo CR-V. The can read about the original build and installing boost and air/fuel gauges.

Today I’ll be doing some metal fabrication to add a “dump tube” to the CRV’s turbo wastegate. This is my first project with my new welder. You can read about the welder setup here.

This silver thing I’m touching is the wastegate in the CR-V.


Photo by Stanislaw Zarychta on Unsplash

Would you like to have automation workflows or alerting related to current spot pricing of gold, silver, platinum or palladium? Of course you would! But first you need to grab the price…

Introducing go-goldapi, a Go package for querying current and historical precious metal prices from goldapi.io. Note: I am the author of the Go package (github.com/joel-g/go-goldapi) but I have no affiliation with goldapi.io.

This API and package can be used to query current and historical prices of gold, silver, platinum and palladium in the following currencies:

  • USD — United States dollar
  • AUD — Australian dollar
  • GBP — British pound

While rooting out the “clunking” sound my 2004 Accord has been making I noticed a very worn looking transmission mount. We can see it is torn in at least 2 places.

Joel Guerra

Software Engineer / Racecar Driver

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